STANDARD INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR HOWARD'S HORNS DYNAMIC DUO, DUAL TRUMPET AIR HORNS
After a run in with an old lady pulling out on me, and my stock Harley horn only occasionally working when I'd press the horn button, I finally decided to buy a decent air horn. I searched around and decided on going with a well known name - Howard Horns.
Living in Florida, I'm always worried about someone pulling out on me or changing lanes. I wanted something that they not only could hear, but would startle the crap out of them to get their attention.
Somewhere, someone told me that Howard's Horns had a decent Scratch & Dent sale. They don't sell them online, but rather, you call and ask what they had. I asked about the Dynamic Duo, dual air horn set. They had several sets and the man noted that I would be hard pressed to find the nick, scratch or ding.
The Dynamic Duo lists for $150, but the Scratch and Dent price was $105.
They ask you to send a certified check made out to a person and send it to a residential address - on a lake. Owner maybe? Non taxable maybe? :-) When you tell them that you'd like to take advantage of this offer, they mark the set with your name and wait for the check, then send it out.
I got the horns shortly thereafter. The guy at the company was right. I had to really look hard to find the scuff. It was located on the back side very close to where the trumpet blends with the manifold, but I one will ever see it - including me.
IMPORTANT: ALWAYS DISCONNECT GROUND BATTERY TERMINAL PRIOR TO DOING ANY WORK ON BIKE!
On carbureted bikes, disconnect choke from stock horn bracket by loosening nut behind bracket, let choke hang until our new bracket is installed.
Attach rubber isolator to right side of our bracket (see picture #3) using ½" socket and our 5/16" bolt and lock washer (enclosed). The horn cover with our compressor (PICTURE 1A) inside will be installed on rubber isolator next. The rubber isolator fits between our bracket and the horn cover.
On carbureted bikes, slide choke cable into center slot and lightly tighten nut to back side of bracket.
Final step is to mount and wire relay under seat. Refer to the RELAY WIRING DIAGRAM (Click here for PDF)
The trick however is the hide all of the wiring. You have to tap into the power source from the old horn that ran up to the switch. This power source now acts nothing more than a trigger to feed a pure power source directly from the battery to the horn. The real trick, that isn't discussed at all, is the make sure that all wires are secure, will not rub on the many vibrating parts connected near the engine, run them past the fuel shutoff, close to and under the gas tank, back toward the battery where I drilled a hole in the plate. I added a rubber grommet to make sure where was no possible way of a short. You basically have a heavy duty power source that is UNFUSED that runs between the battery and relay. I feel that this is a problem area and I'll add my own water-proof marine grade fuse to eliminate the possibility of a shorted connection. The factory reluctantly told me that I would want to use a 30A fuse. I couldn't believe that there was no fuse for such a high end horn.
It took many hours to do the job right and the job was far from easy if you want to do it right. I shielded a great deal of the wiring in and around the motor area in heat shrink tubing to avoid the possibility of a short and to hide the various color wires.
So how did they sound? Click here to listen.
They are AMAZINGLY LOUD. The loudest I've heard to date. They are so loud they do as I had desired - they startle people if they don't anticipate it - and they almost always do. I rarely hold the horn on. It's LOUD I tell you.
The only problem that I have is that there is a lot of vibration on the horn itself. The horns stick out about 12" looking forward, are mounted to the engine, so you can imagine how the small vibration at the horn mounting point translates out 12 inches. On the highway, the horn appears smooth, but at certain RPMs, the tips of the horn are shaking at least 1/4 inch. It's very obvious that they are really shaking at some RPMs. This would be the case with other horns mounted as such. It just seems that they would be better off being mounted to the frame to reduce vibration.
The compress truly hides the on demand compressor. It is instantaneous. All in all, I"m impressed with the quality of the horn. The instructions could be much better as they did not reflect my bike. The lack of a fuse is a real problem, but one that I can address. For the money, you can not get a better horn. I highly recommend the SCRATCH and Dent Sales.
Paper info slip: "DO NOT USE STOCK GROUND WIRE"